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Friday, December 8, 2017

Turn! Turn! (Too late).

All I wanted to do was get to the other side of the interstate.

This week, we got moved to a different office across town, and in this new space, I don't know my way around.  There is an center with a few shops right across the highway, and I decided on the first day that I wanted to stop by there on my way home.  The road that I use to get back onto the highway is not well marked.  The brilliant traffic engineers responsible for this masterpiece created a series of access tunnels under the highway that would make a hobbit proud.  It is a warren of unmarked burrows, and each one takes you to a different magical place.

My first entry took me on an epic, and completely unexpected, journey along the highway to the west.  I honestly have no idea how.

A half hour, three illegal left hand turns later, and a few near misses with massive buses and trucks, and I am back where I started.  Second try at the intersection:  OK, the left road took me the wrong way, so I will try the middle road, which will surely take me across.

Sunday, December 3, 2017

Christmas Lights

When I got here two weeks ago, there were no functioning traffic lights, and the rules we normally follow for lights that are out of service do not apply here in the land of San Juan.

For that matter, I am not sure that I understand the traffic rules that do apply here under normal circumstances.  But we are definitely not in the land of "All lanes stop, and traffic proceeds in turns from the right".

In the post-Maria environment, driving in San Juan is a winner-take-all, devil-take-the-hindmost clustermess of the first order.  And rights of tonnage do apply: the biggest, baddest vehicles win every head-to-head confrontation. Literally.

There is also a scarification system in place, where battered vehicles have an advantage over pristine ones.  (Drafting on the bumper of a semi as it barrels through the intersections, riding the wave of scattered vehicles and honking sedans.... well, I find it to be an effective technique, when I can manage it.)  The driving, as I mentioned before, appeals to my chaotic nature, and brings out a different personality in me.  I love it.

Wednesday, November 29, 2017

Vitoria Regia

I moved hotels yesterday, to a different area of San Juan, and was transported to a place in Belem, Para, Brasil, almost 40 years ago.

I had just turned eight years old.  Mom and Caroline and I flew down from South Carolina to meet up with Dad in Brasil.  He had been there for several months already, and was already thinking like a local: language, food, culture, pace, traffic; he had the rhythm down pat.

When the three of us arrived, Dad had some business to attend to for a couple of days, and so we stayed in Belem.  The place we stayed was the Vitoria Regia (pronounced Vit-TOR-eeya HED-gee).

When I moved into my new hotel yesterday, my mind flashed back to the Vitoria Regia, and I just laughed.

If you want an accurate review of the hotel where we stayed, check it out here or here.  The TripAdvisor reviews for my current hotel read much the same....

Victoria Water Lily.  Image stolen from here.



Vitoria Regia, which translates to the Queen Victoria, is a species of enormous lily pads that grow in Brasil and the adjacent British Guiana. I think that the intent was to name an enormous lilypad that was both fragile and strong after a strong leader.... and the intent of naming the hotel after the beautiful lilypad was to give a nice old world/new world vibe to the place.


Nope.

There are no descriptive terms to explain the Hotel VR, but to call it a dump. The bathrooms are communal (the website says the hotel offers private baths now - an improvement, but all the reviews say that the private baths are all non-functional, which I would imagine fails to improve it).  The one bright spot I recall is the breakfast.

I was a peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwich kid, and I ate anything else under great protest.  I had a particular revulsion of bananas, because of the brown spots.  So when Dad tried to walk me through the difference between fresh bananas and what I was used to, I fought him.  "But I don't like bananas," I said, with all of the whine in my voice that an eight-year-old can muster.

Eventually Dad won, and I reluctantly tried the banana.  Dad watched me, and smiled when my eyes grew wide.  "That is SO different!"

I ended up trying all kinds of new fruits that were offered as part of the continental fare.  I simply could not get enough, and it opened my eyes to something new and strange and different.  And very unexpected.

I also remember Dad introducing me to a man who was a US Navy diver, and being impressed with his stories, and especially with the pin he gave me.  I still have it somewhere.  The old salt and I got to talking about things, and he told me stories that I have long since forgotten, and I just reveled in the new experience of new smells, new tastes, new sights, and new people, most of which spoke a new language.

Later that day, we went to a Portuguese restaurant, which had the most amazing shrimp creole ever - teeming with tiny river shrimp that were served in a spicy sauce over rice.... Again, Dad convinced me to try a food with which I was unfamiliar, and again, I was blown away with how good the fare was.

I believe that day was the day that set me on the course of being an appreciator of local cuisine.

So when I checked in to a sketchy-looking hotel with dingy, tired sheets atop a sagging, low-quality mattress, and which looks to be in dire need of a deep cleaning, I start looking around for food to try.  And my heart just starts to grin like a fool.

Not all that bad.  But not as good as it looks, either.



Place is not defined in my heart by the amenities, but by the people and the food.  I am meeting nice people at every turn.  I am eating great food at every hole-in-the-wall place and food truck I try.  I feel fortunate just to be allowed entry into the society, in any small way, whatever nook I can occupy.



At the end of the week, my stay at the Sandy Beach Hotel will come to an end.  When it does, I will probably not work too hard to extend my stay.  Eventually, I will want a place with clean sheets, with mattresses that were bought sometime in this century, and maybe even one with a bar in the lower floor where I can watch the game.


But until then, this Victoria Regia, inexplicably, will just make me smile.

Saturday, November 25, 2017

&*%^#!!!

"Que mucha poca p**a madre!"

I am behind the wheel in San Juan, screaming with absolute glee at the top of my lungs at the idiot in front of me that just came to an inexplicable full stop in the middle of the intersection.  And in mid-stream profanity, it really hit me.

I am back home.

Lemme 'splain.

No.  There is too much.  Lemme sum up.

My wife is the quintessential southern lady.  She does not leave the house without makeup carefully arranged, and follows rules I never had to learn.  If you think Steel Magnolia, you have the right picture.  And then she begins to speak Spanish.....

Thursday, November 23, 2017

Moustaches are as Cool as Fezzes

Bottom line up front: I am asking you to donate, at
https://mobro.co/cromobronola My facial hair has always been a little wispy. Way back in
high school, I followed my friend Brad’s sage teenage advice,
and shaved every day (I needed to shave once a week) to ensure that my beard would fill in. It never did. I have heard it all: "Tuft guy." "Cat died?" "Don’t worry; it’ll fill in." "I wish I didn’t have to shave twice a day...."
Horseshoe? Really? Only Hulk Hogan could make this style cool.
So why would I shave it all off and start again. On purpose? Because it gets me a chance to talk about getting checked out for prostate cancer. I work

Big Problems. And Thanks Giving.

Every day, I tilt at windmills. It is my job.

Deep in the heart of a very bureaucratic institution, I fight to get the projects I shepherd - I think of them as 'my projects' - through an arcane process.  I write memos using inscrutable acronyms, I call people, I prepare briefings, and I review documents to ensure that they are complete, reasonable, legal, and policy compliant.

And often I come home frustrated and angry because I did not make progress.  The wheels of the burrocrazy grind slowly, and they grind everything to the finest dust.  My job is a part of this process:  Big Problems become small problems; small problems get broken apart into tasks that comply with policy, and the tasks are all verified against checklists.

Endless checklists.

Today, I am working on something different.

Monday, October 16, 2017

Risk Sharing in my Online Family

A friend of a friend had his car break down, and he could not get to work.  The next day, there was a gofundme account set up to help with the unexpected expense.

A friend had massive migraines, and the docs said surgery was needed.  The deductible was massive, but a couple of motivated friends got the word out, and dozens of people who had never met face-to-face were donating money to cover the cost.

A friend had a movie that she wanted to make.  Her kickstarter campaign provided backers with the chance to join in on the fun, get updates on the show, get the opportunity to download the final version, and for a certain level of investment, be allowed to attend the opening of the film.  (I seem to remember that you could even have your name included in the script).

A number of my friends in my new hometown shared information about a family in town whose house had burned.  Suddenly, people across the area - and beyond - are looking through their closets to find clothes for the five children, and figuring out how to help with replacement housing, bedding, dishes, furniture, and, well, everything.

I looked down the list for each one, and found that many of the donors were anonymous.  This was clearly not the equivalent of putting a wealthy family's name on over the door at the local medical center.  It is something different.  Furthermore, the people who did announce their donations were a bit of a surprise.  They were not 1% family members.  For the most part, the donors were friends living under tremendous financial strain themselves, with low-paying jobs in places with a high cost of living.  And giving anyway.

Giving generously.

In 1968, there was a group of anthropologists led by Evon Vogt in Chiapas, Mexico.  They were doing research on how small communities make their living: what the different spheres of life were and how they were intertwined.  Investigations touched on religion, work, family, life cycles, seasons, and how the universe is ordered. 

One of Vogt's students looked specifically at how the community dealt with risk, and observed that money was pooled within the community to help people who had need.  The money was considered a loan, rather than a gift, and the debt had to be paid back at the time of the next crisis.  The payback, as observed. did not conform to any traditional Western social rules of debt and repayment. 

The student decided to give it a try, and for his next field season, bought a one-way ticket down to Chiapas, and then brought enough money to buy the return flight.

Once he was down in the village, he did what he had observed.  Every time someone had a need, and asked him for a loan, he gave it to them.  He lived in the village, did his research, embedded himself in the work and politics of the village, and when it came time to go back to the US, he asked the villagers who had received loans to help him (and his wife) get back.  He got exactly the amount he needed to buy the ticket.

The story really stuck with me.  At the time, I thought of how very strange it was.  How foreign, how quintessentially 'other', to have a community that shared the risks by a series of debt relationships, and helping one another out when in need.

Growing up, I had learned that these risk management measures were the job of family.

I grew up in a pretty tight-knit family.  Other than my uncle Johnny, who left SC for Arizona, everybody in my family lived either in/around Greenville or in/around Beaufort.  I had family ties, places to stay, couches on which to crash everywhere I turned.  There were stories - many of which were probably apocryphal - of personal/legal/financial troubles that were staved off by using family connections.  The lesson - and one that I learned well - was you could go to family whenever you were in a pinch, and you could rely on them to help bail you out.

Now, however, my family is flung everywhere.  Any friends I had when I was growing up have all moved, some of them many times.  Military.  Job postings.  Grad schools and professorships.  So what is the basis of the community that I relied on?

I am also a new kid in a small town.  I love Vicksburg, and am building friendships here with people that I have already grown to love.  But inserting myself into a tight-knit community in a small town is kinda tough.

Where is my community now?  Where is the place that I can turn to for help?  Where can people turn to for me to help?

I am beginning to realize that the online community has started to function in some ways like the small community in Zinacantan.  Debts are accrued and paid as people have needs.  It is not important, really, whether we have ever met face to face.  You are a friend of Ben's, and he shared your need with us on a public forum, I will help a little, because of my love for Ben.  I will donate some money to Molly's 150-mile MS ride.  I will make a donation to the Southern Poverty Law Center because of my love for Suz.  I will help.

And y'all will help me.  I will pass along my concerns, and y'all donate to my causes, too.  I mean, I am not asking for booze money.  (Even if I did, I suspect that some of you would help pay down my bar tab - worthy cause that it is).  But we help one another, even sometimes when we don't agree - politically, socially, and ethically. 

I suspect part of the desire to help people on social media is a change in the way we do charitable giving. My faith in agencies and institutions has dropped, and I tend to investigate overhead rates before I donate money to any cause.  But if your friend needs help because there was a death in the family and they don't have money for the funeral?  I might be able to help.  Maybe not a lot.  But some.  Crowdsourcing the solutions to problems - be they big or small - brings my community closer together.

We are making our own communities; some of which include, but which is not limited to, our families of origin.  We love and trust one another, and care for one another when the chips are down.

And when I am in need, I might just come back to you.  So that I can get my plane ticket home.